Molise and the Abruzzo parks

The trip begins in Borgo Vecchio, the old quarter of Termoli, on a headland above the Adriatic. Walk the narrow lanes between fishermen's houses, look for the tiny alley called rejecélle, and visit the Swabian castle and the cathedral. Try the local brodetto alla termolese for lunch, then on to Oratino.

Oratino is a stonemasons' village in the Molise hills, and the day ends here. Look at the carved doorway of Palazzo Giordano, then climb to La Rocca, the Norman watchtower on its crest. At supper, try the region's cavatelli, and stay the night here or nearby.

Below Sepino lie the Roman ruins of Saepinum, so start with the forum and Porta Bojano, and see the farmhouses built into the curve of the theatre. Then head up to the hill village in the Matese foothills. Try the region's cavatelli for lunch, then on to Frosolone.

Frosolone has made knives and scissors for generations. Visit the museum of blades, then walk through Porta San Pietro and Porta Santa Maria into the old town, and if you have time, find the Samnite walls at Civitelle on the mountain above. Try the local caciocavallo, then on to Fornelli.

Fornelli is where you end the day, a walled village with round watchtowers. Enter through the gateway of the castle-palace and walk the town walls. Olive oil has made it a Città dell'Olio, so taste the region's Molise oil at supper and stay the night here.

Opi perches on a rock spur within the national park, with bears, wolves and chamois in the mountains around. Visit the chamois museum and its wildlife enclosure, or walk into the beech forests of Val Fondillo. Try arrosticini, the region's grilled skewers, then on to Villalago.

Villalago sits high above the Sagittario gorges. Find the Eremo di San Domenico, built against the saint's cave beside its small lake, then see the round Lombard tower and the museum of old crafts. Look out over Lago di Scanno before you go on to Anversa degli Abruzzi.

Anversa degli Abruzzi stands at the start of the Sagittario gorge. Follow the trail into the nature reserve and its botanical garden, then climb to the ruined castle that D'Annunzio chose for his tragedy. In the evening, pour a glass of the region's Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and stay the night here.

At Pettorano sul Gizio, a castle that Charles of Anjou expanded overlooks the Gizio river. Walk up to the keep with its round towers, then wander the baroque streets rebuilt after the earthquake, passing Palazzo La Castaldina, before going on to Caramanico Terme.

Caramanico Terme is a spa town inside the park, where two rivers meet. Visit Santa Maria Maggiore for its Gothic portal and the Romanesque San Tommaso, then walk into the Orfento valley nature reserve. In August, look for the local pizzelle sewn onto the baskets of the Palmentieri procession, and settle in here for the night.

The last day starts in Palena, a mountain town high over the Aventino river. Visit San Falco, rebuilt with a red-brick facade, and the palaeontology museum, then walk up to the Norman castle at the top of the spur before going on to Pretoro.

Your last stop is Pretoro, on a sharp slope of the Maiella. Climb between its stone houses to the old castle site and look for the terracotta Pietà in San Nicola; this is woodcarving country, ringed by beech woods. Try the local pasta alla chitarra, then head back to Pescara.