Dolomites and South Tyrol

Rango is a village of old houses leaning together, linked by porticoes and covered passages. Wander through them and look in at the parish church, then try the region's canederli for lunch. After that, on to San Lorenzo in Banale.

San Lorenzo in Banale is known for ciuìga, a smoked sausage that is a Slow Food presidium. Visit the church of San Giorgio, then sit down to it with polenta if it is winter. Stay the night here, with the Val d'Ambiez opening towards the Brenta Dolomites.

Glorenza is a tiny town that still stands whole inside its walls. Walk the full circuit of gates and watchtowers, then find San Pancrazio and the Last Judgement painted on its bell tower. Have speck for lunch, and stay the night here.

Vipiteno is a late-Gothic town beneath the Brenner Pass. Walk under the Zwölferturm, which divides the Old Town from the New, and look into the Town Hall courtyard for the Roman altar to Mithras. Stop for canederli at lunch, then on to Chiusa.

Chiusa lies in the Eisack valley, where Dürer once stopped to draw the town. Stroll the main street of the Upper Town, then follow the old Way of the Cross on foot up to Säben monastery. Raise a glass of white wine here before going on to Castelrotto.

Castelrotto is a small centre beneath the Seiser Alm, with the bell tower of Santi Pietro e Paolo over its rooftops. If the weather is fair, take the cable car from nearby Seis up to the meadows. Stay the night here, where German is the everyday language.

Sèn Jan di Fassa is a Ladin-speaking corner of the Trentino Dolomites. Visit the Museo ladino di Fassa, with its sawmill and mill, or walk towards the Catinaccio. Try the region's canederli at lunch, then drive on to Sottoguda.

Sottoguda is a mountain hamlet under the Marmolada glacier. Look for its wooden haylofts and stone houses, and visit the wrought-iron workshops, a craft here since the late eighteenth century. Check whether the Serrai gorge is open before you go. Mezzano comes next.

Mezzano ends the day among stacked firewood. Wander the lanes to find the woodpile sculptures of Cataste & Canzei and look up at the onion-domed tower of San Giorgio. Sleep here tonight, perhaps over the region's canederli at supper.