Sicily's inland villages

Your first stop is Militello, rebuilt in baroque style after an earthquake, as its churches and palaces show. Visit the Barresi Branciforte castle, then find Antonello Gagini's carved portal at Santa Maria la Vetere. Try a cassatella di Militello before going on to Palazzolo Acreide.

Palazzolo Acreide is best explored on foot, along winding lanes and stairways. Climb to the Greek theatre of ancient Akrai on the hill above, then come down to the Chiesa dell'Immacolata. Sample the Salsiccia di Palazzolo at lunch, then go on to Ferla.

Small and baroque, Ferla stands above the Anapo valley. Walk to the Quattro Canti, where the main streets meet, and admire the curving front of Sant'Antonio Abate. Stay the night here or nearby, close to Pantalica and its rock-cut tombs.

Buccheri sits high on Monte Lauro, where the summers are cool. Climb the long stairway to Sant'Antonio Abate, then go up to the castle remains for views towards the Gulf of Catania. Look out for Tonda Iblea olive oil before you head to Agira.

Agira sits high on Monte Teja, above the Salso valley. Climb to the castle on the summit, then step into the Santissimo Salvatore to see the stone Aron that once belonged to the old synagogue. Try the Cassatelle di Agira before the road goes on to Troina.

Troina is where Roger I set up his first Norman capital, beside the Nebrodi woods. Stand in Piazza Conte Ruggero for the view towards Etna, then visit the cathedral. Stay the night here, and try pasta 'ncaciata at supper.

Sperlinga's castle is hewn partly out of the rock, and the cave quarter of the Balzo has dwellings dug into the stone in rows. Wander both, then try a Tortone, the local sweet, before going on to Gangi.

Gangi is a steep town in the Madonie, so be ready to climb. Follow its lanes up to San Nicolò, and visit the crypt of the priests, where mummified clergy stand in niches. Petralia Soprana is next.

Petralia Soprana stands higher than any other town in the Madonie. Take a guided visit to MACSS, the salt sculptures inside a working mine, then look for the majolica spires of Santa Maria di Loreto. Settle in here for the night, among lanes the Normans shaped.

Geraci Siculo climbs a mountain inside the Madonie park, from Piazza del Popolo up to the ruined castle on its rock. Step into the Chiesa Madre di Santa Maria Maggiore with its pointed stone portal. Try the region's arancini before the last leg to Cefalù.

The journey ends by the sea at Cefalù, beneath the great Rocca. Step into the cathedral to see the Byzantine mosaics in the apse, then wander the lanes down to the old port. Finish with the region's cannolo siciliano before the road to Palermo Airport.