Bastides from the Tarn to Gascony

Begin in Lautrec, the town of pink garlic. Wander the triangular market square with its timber-framed houses, climb to the Salette windmill and look at the Porte de la Caussade, last of the old gates. Then on to Castelnau-de-Montmiral.

Castelnau-de-Montmiral is a bastide perched above the Vère. Stand in the arcaded square by the old pillory, stop for a croustade, then walk into the Forêt de la Grésigne, a vast oak forest to the north. Next, Puycelsi.

Settle in at Puycelsi and walk the ramparts, passing the double-defended Irissou Gate, with the Grésigne forest spread beyond. Visit the church of Saint-Corneille, then stay the night here in this quiet hilltop village.

Bruniquel is crowned by a pair of castles over the Aveyron. Step onto the Renaissance gallery of the old one, which hangs over the valley, and see the prehistory museum in the younger castle. Then on to Lauzerte.

Lauzerte is a stop on the pilgrim road to Santiago. Look for the merchants' houses with their arched shop doorways, and the seneschal's court above its vaulted cellar, then take a coffee break before going on to Auvillar.

Arrive in Auvillar, on its rocky spur above the Garonne. Walk to the circular market hall and the clock tower, then enjoy the view across the plain and stay the night here, with the old river port below.

La Romieu still greets pilgrim walkers along the Via Podiensis. Visit the Collégiale Saint-Pierre and its cloister, look up at the Cardinal d'Aux tower, and ask about the legend of the cats. Then on to Fourcès.

Fourcès is a bastide laid out as a circle. Walk around the round square, ringed by houses built for defence, and through the old town gate. Then drive on through farmland and vineyards to Montréal.

Arrive in Montréal, a bastide of regular streets leading to an arcaded square. Visit Séviac, the nearby Gallo-Roman villa, and in the evening try the Armagnac, the brandy of this land, before you stay the night here.

Larressingle is a small walled village, with a ruined castle next to the Saint-Sigismond church. Walk the ring of walls, look at the siege machines, and gaze out over the armagnac vineyards below. Then on to Lavardens.

The château of Lavardens rules the village and now hosts exhibitions and events. Go in if something is on, then wander down the steep lanes off the main street and look in at the church of Saint-Michel. Next, Sarrant.

Your last stop is Sarrant, where the houses circle the church of Saint-Vincent. Enter by the old town gate and wander the lanes of old timber-framed houses. From here the road leads back to Toulouse.