Southern Italy: Basilicata and Calabria

Venosa was the Roman town of Venusia, where Horace was born. Visit the Aragonese castle of Pirro del Balzo, home to the archaeological museum, then step into the abbey church of the Santissima Trinità. Have a glass of Aglianico del Vulture with lunch before moving on to Acerenza.

Acerenza stands on a high plateau between two rivers, and its Romanesque-Gothic cathedral is the reason to come. Go down to the crypt, then look in at the church of San Laviero. Spend the night nearby.

Pietrapertosa perches higher than any other town in Basilicata, and its houses are built straight onto the rock. Climb to the Norman-Swabian castle below the natural rock arch and wander the old Arabata quarter. Castelmezzano, your next stop, is linked to it by a zip line, the Volo dell'Angelo.

Castelmezzano is ringed by rock spires, its stone-roofed houses climbing in tiers. Take the steps cut into the rock up to the remains of the Norman castle, and try the region's peperone crusco at lunch. Then on to Guardia Perticara.

Guardia Perticara is a small village high in the Val d'Agri, its old centre carefully restored. Walk the lanes, then visit the Franciscan convent of Sant'Antonio. End the day with a glass of the region's Aglianico del Vulture, and spend the night nearby.

Maratea gives the third day a coastal start on the Tyrrhenian Sea. Climb Monte San Biagio to the statue of the Redeemer and the basilica that keeps the relics of Saint Blaise, then look down over the cliffs and coves. Try alici alla scapece for lunch before heading to Aieta.

Aieta stands on a ridge inside the Pollino National Park. Find the Renaissance Palazzo Martirano-Spinelli, then walk out to the Valle dei Mulini and its restored old mills. Stay the night here, and try the region's 'nduja at supper.

Morano Calabro rises as a pyramid of white houses under its castle, and the best way to know it is to wander its maze of lanes. Look in at the Collegiata di Santa Maria Maddalena and the old Jewish quarter, Giudea. Civita is next.

Civita is an Arbëreshë village, where the language, rite and dress of its Albanian settlers live on. Walk out to the Ponte del Diavolo over the Raganello and visit the Arbëreshë Ethnic Museum. Try the region's soppressata calabrese before moving on to Altomonte.

Altomonte ends the day on a promontory above olive groves and vineyards. Visit Santa Maria della Consolazione, with works linked to Simone Martini and Bernardo Daddi, and look up at the Torre dei Pallotta. Stay the night here or nearby, perhaps with a glass of Balbine wine.