The Aveyron and the Tarn

Your journey begins on the hill of Cordes, where the Maison du Grand Veneur shows off its carved facade. Wander among the Gothic houses and step into Saint-Michel church, then buy a bag of croquants before driving on to Monestiés.

Monestiés sits beside the Cérou, in the schist country of the Ségala. Take a walk under the trees of the woods of Saint-Hippolyte, a protected natural area, and let the river set the pace. Sauveterre-de-Rouergue is next.

You arrive in Sauveterre-de-Rouergue, a bastide of stone houses under schist roofs. Step into the church of Saint-Christophe and hear how cutlers once ground their blades with water power. Stay the night here and let the plateau go quiet around you.

The day starts beside the Lot at Sainte-Eulalie-d'Olt, where the river widens into a long reservoir. Visit the church of Sainte-Eulalie and, in July and August, the little museum devoted to Marcel Boudou's paintings, before carrying on along the Lot to Saint-Côme-d'Olt.

Look up at the twisted spire of the church as you reach Saint-Côme-d'Olt. This is a pilgrim village on the Via Podiensis, so walk a little of the GR 620 footpath, which starts right here, before heading on to Estaing.

Estaing's castle watches over the Lot, and its old bridge is a pilgrim crossing recognised by UNESCO. Walk over it, then look in at the church of Saint-Fleuret. Stay the night here; in early July the village honours its saint with a festival.

Start the day at Conques, where the great abbey church greets you with its Last Judgement tympanum. Cross the old pilgrims' bridge over the Dourdou and visit the treasury for the golden statue of Sainte Foy before you leave for Belcastel.

Climb the cobbled lanes of Belcastel to the restored castle, now an art gallery. Cross the Vieux Pont over the Aveyron to the church on the far bank and look back at the village from there. Then on to Najac.

The day ends at Najac, strung along its ridge. Walk from the castle to the arcaded square with its timber-framed houses, and treat yourself to a slice of fouace. Stay the night here, with the Aveyron curving below.