Tuscan stone villages and the Val d'Orcia

Lucignano is an ellipse of lanes on its hilltop, and the museum at the Palazzo Pretorio holds its treasure, the gilded Albero d'oro. Walk out to the Santuario della Madonna della Querce, then try the region's ribollita for lunch before moving on to Buonconvento.

Buonconvento still sits snugly inside its old walls. Enter through the Porta Senese and visit the Museo d'Arte Sacra della Val d'Arbia for paintings by Duccio and Pietro Lorenzetti. Stay the night here, on the Via Francigena.

San Casciano dei Bagni is a village of hot springs, a good place to slow down. Learn about the digs at the Etruscan-Roman spa sanctuary, then take in the view from Piazza della Repubblica, perhaps with a plate of pici. Cetona is next.

In Cetona, start in the broad Piazza Garibaldi, then climb the lanes towards Monte Cetona. The Civic Museum of the Prehistory of Monte Cetona tells the story of its caves, among the oldest traces of settlement in central Italy. Then on to Santa Fiora.

Santa Fiora is a good place to end the day. Wander down to the Peschiera, the spring-fed pool in its wooded park, then find Andrea della Robbia's terracottas in the Pieve. Settle in here for the night, on the slopes of Monte Amiata.

Pitigliano opens the third day, with its houses rising straight out of the tuff. Visit the synagogue and the Jewish museum in the old ghetto, then try a Sfratto di Pitigliano on the way out. Sovana is next.

Sovana's story begins with the Etruscans. Stand in Piazza del Pretorio among the Romanesque churches, step into the cathedral to see the carved capitals, then walk out to the Etruscan necropolis. Then on to Montemerano.

Montemerano is where the last full day ends. Pass under the arch into Piazza del Castello, then look in at San Giorgio for the Madonna della Gattaiola, named after a cat flap. Sleep here tonight, among the stone houses.