Soria and the Guadalajara highlands

Your journey starts in Ayllón, an old Castilian town. Climb to La Martina at the top of the village, then, if you have time, look for the Riaza gorges, where there is a vulture reserve. Caleruega is next.

Arrive in Caleruega, where Saint Dominic was born. Visit the royal monastery of Dominican nuns and the Torreón de los Guzmanes, then try the region's roast lamb, lechazo, at supper before you stay the night here.

Vinuesa sits among pine forests beneath the Picos de Urbión. Look into the church of Nuestra Señora del Pino, then, if the day allows, visit the Laguna Negra, the glacial lake that inspired Antonio Machado. Yanguas waits at the end of the day.

Arrive in Yanguas, a village once famous for its muleteers. Wander the Plaza Mayor and the lanes of slate and timber houses, climb to the castle with its earthen towers, then stay the night here or nearby.

Berlanga de Duero sits beneath its castle above the Escalote. Climb to the castle and its artillery walls, then see the collegiate church of Santa María del Mercado and the Renaissance palace façade on the Plaza del Mercado. Then on to Monteagudo de las Vicarías.

Arrive in Monteagudo de las Vicarías, a village on the old frontier of Castile. Look at the castle-palace of La Recompensa and the town gate, then stay the night here or nearby, with open countryside protected for its birds.

Medinaceli stands high above the Jalón valley. Walk under the three-arched Roman gate, stroll the Plaza Mayor and look into the Colegiata de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. A coffee on the square is a good pause before Atienza.

Atienza climbs the slope to its hilltop castle. Walk through the two arcaded squares and along Calle Cervantes, where noble crests mark the houses; at Pentecost, the muleteers' Caballada fills the town. Then on to Valverde de los Arroyos.

Arrive in Valverde de los Arroyos, a village of dark slate walls beneath Pico Ocejón. Walk its lanes, go to the nearby Chorreras de Despeñalagua waterfall, then stay the night here.

Your last stop is Hita. Come in by the Puerta de Santa María, walk to the Plaza del Arcipreste, named after the poet of the Libro de buen amor, and visit the Mudéjar church of San Juan Bautista. In early July a medieval festival fills the town. Then the road leads back to Madrid.