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North-east Sicily: Etna to Cefalù

4 days · ~8 h 30 ·Islands, Hill towns, Coast

Day by day

Driving times are approximate, from OpenStreetMap roads without traffic; long legs are rougher estimates. The Google Maps links give up-to-date times.

  1. Day 1

    ~1 h 45 · 6 h

    Film-set villages above the Ionian coast

    1. Catania Airport
    2. ~1 h · 80 km
      SavocaSicily

      First stop is Savoca, a medieval village on a double-peaked hill. Have a coffee or a granita at Bar Vitelli, familiar from The Godfather, then see San Nicolò church and the lava-stone rose window of Santa Maria in Cielo Assunta. Then on to Forza d'Agrò.

    3. ~15 min · 12 km
      Forza d'AgròSicily

      Forza d'Agrò sits high above the sea. Pass through the Porta Durazzesca and climb the steps towards Santissima Trinità, and look up at the ruined castle on the summit. Castelmola is next.

    4. ~30 min · 21 km
      CastelmolaSicily

      Reach Castelmola in time for the view from the lookout in Piazza Sant'Antonino, across to Taormina. Try the almond wine, walk up to the castle ruins, and stay the night here on the summit.

    5. Overnight in Castelmola

  2. Day 2

    ~2 h 10 · 6 h

    Etna's vineyards, Norman stone and Peloritani churches

    1. ~45 min · 33 km
      Castiglione di SiciliaSicily

      Begin the day in Castiglione di Sicilia, with Etna filling the sky to the west. Look for the Norman watchtower called U Cannizzu and the Byzantine Cuba di Santa Domenica, then taste an Etna DOC wine in the lower town. On to Novara di Sicilia.

    2. ~40 min · 36 km
      Novara di SiciliaSicily

      Novara di Sicilia is a mountain village of sandstone lanes. Step into the Duomo and the Cistercian abbey of Santa Maria La Noara, then taste maiorchino, the cheese that is rolled through the streets at Carnival. Next, Castroreale.

    3. ~45 min · 36 km
      CastrorealeSicily

      Arrive in Castroreale, the royal town of steep stone lanes and belvedere squares. Visit the Duomo and look for Antonello Gagini's Annunciation in Sant'Agata, then spend the night here or nearby. A Biscotto d'a Badissa makes a sweet end to the day.

    4. Overnight in Castroreale

  3. Day 3

    ~2 h 10 · 4 h

    Aragonese kings, megaliths and the first Norman castle

    1. ~55 min · 43 km
      Montalbano EliconaSicily

      Montalbano Elicona is a village of steep stairways under a royal castle. Climb to the castle and its chapel and, if you have the energy, go looking for the Argimusco megaliths close by. San Marco d'Alunzio waits at the end of the day.

    2. ~1 h 15 · 72 km
      San Marco d'AlunzioSicily

      In San Marco d'Alunzio, walk Via Aluntina, lined with churches. Visit the Temple of Hercules, the old Greek temple later made a church, and the museum of Byzantine and Norman art, then spend the night here or nearby, beneath the Nebrodi.

    3. Overnight in San Marco d'Alunzio

  4. Day 4

    ~2 h 25 · 2 h

    A cathedral by the sea to end the trip

    1. ~1 h 05 · 75 km
      CefalùSicily

      Your last stop is Cefalù. Wander the lanes down to the old port, then step into the cathedral for the Byzantine mosaics in the apse. Finish with a cannolo, a sweet found all over Sicily, before the road to Palermo airport.

    2. ~1 h 20 · 101 km
      Palermo Airport

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What you'll eat

What each stop is known for, and the dishes its region is famous for.

Savoca

  • Daniele PugliesiPani cunzatu (Scopello)CC BY-SA 4.0
    Pani cunzatu (IT)Bread and pastaWood-oven bread dressed with local olive oil, salt, chilli or preserves
  • Granita with zzuccarataSweetLemon granita served only here with a crunchy sesame biscuit

Castelmola

  • Almond wineDrinkDry white wine infused with bitter almonds, herbs, citrus and zibibbo

Castiglione di Sicilia

  • Etna DOCWineWine from the Etna slopes, made in the hamlets around the town

Novara di Sicilia

  • Biagio MazzùMaiorchinoCC BY-SA 4.0
    Maiorchino (IT)CheeseHistoric Peloritani sheep's cheese, Slow Food Presidium, rolled at Carnival
  • Pasta 'ncasciadaDishSummer pasta with veal and mutton ragù, meatballs, aubergine and egg
  • Lempi e troriDishBoiled beans, grass pea, maize, lentils and wheat, then seasoned
  • FrittuiDishPork with lard, rind, tripe, lung, heart and liver, boiled together
  • Ricotta infornataCheeseBaked ricotta
  • Risu nirùSweetToasted hazelnuts with cocoa, candied orange peel and cinnamon

Castroreale

  • Biscotto d'a BadissaSweetOld biscuit recipe tied to the Poor Clare nuns' convent

Also typical of Sicily

Adapted from Wikipedia (Savoca, Castelmola, Novara di Sicilia, Castroreale, Sicilian cuisine, Cucina siciliana), Wikivoyage (Castiglione di Sicilia, Novara di Sicilia). Available under CC BY-SA 4.0.

Where you'll sleep

The village where each night falls, with the places to stay mapped within 3 km.

Data © OpenStreetMap contributors (ODbL).

Thermal baths along the way

Spas and hot springs near your stops, the closest by road first.

  • Pozza Termale Sclafani Bagni · ~1 h 07 by car from Cefalù
  • Surgiva Cavura Sclafani · ~1 h 07 by car from Cefalù

Data © OpenStreetMap contributors (ODbL).

Soundtrack for this trip

Sicilian music from the island's own tradition to opera, singer-songwriters and pop.

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