The Maestrazgo and the Matarraña

You head up into the Maestrazgo to Culla, on a mountain above deep ravines. Climb to the castle remains, the Torre de Frare Pere and the barbican gate, then step into the church of El Salvador. After that, on to Cantavieja.

Cantavieja is a walled town high above the ravines. Wander the arcaded Plaza de Cristo Rey in the old town, and see the hermitage of Loreto with the Hospital de San Roque, paid for by wool. At dinner, try the region's jamón de Teruel, then stay the night here.

The second day starts at Mirambel, a walled village whose historic centre is protected as a whole. Walk the lanes and spot the locations from Ken Loach's film Land and Freedom, then on to Morella.

Next comes Morella, still ringed by its medieval walls below the castle. Enter through one of the gates, climb to the castle for the wide views, and look inside Santa María la Mayor. Try the local flaons, then on to Valderrobres.

Enter Valderrobres by its Gothic bridge across the Matarraña, then climb the old town to the Gothic castle and church. Look out for Peña Aznar, the rock called La Caixa, and settle in here for the night, with the region's ternasco de Aragón at dinner.

Your final morning begins among the olive and almond groves of La Fresneda. See the commandery palace and the town hall, then walk up Santa Bárbara hill to find the rock carvings, including 'the first fresnedino'. Then on to Calaceite.

The trip ends in Calaceite, a town of the Matarraña stretched along a ridge. Wander its old streets and the Baroque town hall, then look for flaonets, small pastries of the town, with a coffee. From here the road runs on to Zaragoza.