Abruzzo: the Gran Sasso and the Majella

You begin on Guardiagrele's long promontory, a terrace over the Maiella. Step into Santa Maria Maggiore for its Saint Christopher fresco, and look out for the town's metalwork, down to the presentosa jewel. Then on to Pacentro.

In Pacentro, look up at the Caldora castle and its square towers, then walk to Santa Maria Maggiore with its white stone façade. If you come in September, the village holds its barefoot Corsa degli Zingari. On then to Pescocostanzo.

You reach Pescocostanzo, high on the plateaus of Abruzzo. Step into the basilica of Santa Maria del Colle for its gilded coffered ceilings and wrought-iron gate. Stay the night here, and try the region's arrosticini for dinner.

The second day opens in Scanno, a stone town above its lake. Walk the lanes that Cartier-Bresson and Giacomelli photographed, then go down to Lago di Scanno and the Madonna del Lago chapel built into the rock. Try Scanno's pecorino before moving on to Navelli.

Navelli is saffron country. Walk up its hillside to see San Sebastiano, whose bell tower was once a watchtower, and the trapezoid church of Santa Maria in Cerulis. Ask for the Zafferano dell'Aquila grown on the plain, then head to Santo Stefano di Sessanio.

You settle in at Santo Stefano di Sessanio, a stone village whose old houses now form a scattered hotel. Find the gate with the Medici coat of arms and the narrow lane past the watchtower. Stay the night here, and try the village's lentils at dinner.

Morning finds you at Castel del Monte, a compact village on Monte Bolza facing Rocca Calascio. Walk up to the Ricetto, its oldest fortified quarter, and see the church of San Marco, whose tower watches over the roofs. Try the village's canestrato cheese, then on to Civitella del Tronto.

You end the day at Civitella del Tronto, under its fortress on a travertine cliff. Walk the fortress walls as the evening comes on, with wide views to the Maiella and the Gran Sasso. Stay the night here; tomorrow is the drive back to Pescara.