Hill towns of Umbria

Begin at Castiglione del Lago, once an island in Lake Trasimeno. Climb to the Palazzo della Corgna to see its frescoed halls, then follow the walkway out towards the Rocca del Leone and look back over the water. Look out for the Fagiolina del Trasimeno, the lake's small bean, then on to Paciano.

Paciano is a small walled village, entered through its old gates. Walk to the Torre d'Orlando and look in at the San Giuseppe collection, with art from Etruscan times onwards. Then carry on to Panicale.

Panicale gazes out over the lake from its hill. Go into San Sebastiano to find Perugino's fresco of Saint Sebastian's martyrdom, then look in at the small Teatro Cesare Caporali with its old painted curtain. Stay the night here and let the evening settle over the valley.

Corciano, with its round old centre on a hill, opens the morning. Step into Santa Maria Assunta for Perugino's Assumption, then find Bonfigli's banner, which shows the town and its castle. Wander the medieval lanes for a while before heading on to Deruta.

Deruta is the town of maiolica, so come ready to browse. Inside the old walls, small workshops still paint pottery by hand, and the Museo regionale della Ceramica shows how the craft grew. Then on to Torgiano for the night.

Torgiano is all about wine. Visit the Wine Museum in Palazzo Graziani-Baglioni, then taste a Torgiano Rosso Riserva with your evening meal. End the day here, where the Tiber and the Chiascio meet just below the walls.

Bettona opens the day with a sweeping view. Walk its old walls, part of them Etruscan, and pick out Perugia, Assisi and Spello in the distance. Then step into the town museum for its paintings by Perugino. Spello comes next.

Enter Spello by the Porta Consolare and climb the ridge into the old centre. Pinturicchio's frescoes in the Baglioni chapel of Santa Maria Maggiore are the highlight, and a bruschetta makes a good lunch. In May or June, flower carpets line the streets for the Infiorata. Then on to Bevagna.

Bevagna sits flat on the plain, and its lopsided Piazza Silvestri is the place to start. Admire the two Romanesque churches facing each other, then ask at the civic museum about the Roman baths below ground. Montefalco is the last stop of the day.

Montefalco closes the day with wine. Visit the San Francesco museum for Benozzo Gozzoli's cycle on the life of Saint Francis, then taste a Sagrantino in one of the wine shops. Sleep here tonight, among the vineyards and olive groves.

Last of all comes Trevi, steep and medieval on its olive-covered hill. Climb to the centre for views over the valley and step into San Francesco to see its old organ. Taste the Trevi olive oil before you go; from here the road leads back to Perugia Airport.