Casentino and the upper Tiber

Start at Castelfranco di Sopra, a village founded by Florence beneath the Pratomagno. Enter beneath the tower attributed to Arnolfo di Cambio and walk the central piazza the founders laid out, then seek out the abbey of San Salvatore a Soffena, older than the village itself. Then on to Loro Ciuffenna.

Loro Ciuffenna sits beside its torrent, under the Pratomagno hills. Walk down through the village, then look for the Pieve di San Pietro a Gropina, a 12th-century church and national monument. Watch for the curious Balze del Valdarno on the land sloping towards the Arno, and stay the night here over a bowl of the region's ribollita.

The second day starts in Raggiolo, all stone and chestnut woods, which you explore only on foot. Visit the chestnut museum, then walk the car-free lanes under the trees before you take to the road again.

Poppi is dominated by the Guidi counts' castle. Go in for the courtyard, the outside staircase and the library of rare manuscripts. Follow the L-shaped walls to San Fedele abbey at the far end, and spare a thought for Dante, who stayed here. Then on to Anghiari.

Anghiari climbs its hill over the Tiber, a maze of steps and steep lanes. Visit the museum of the battle, where Florence beat Milan below, and look out from the belvedere on the walls. At dinner, try the local bringoli with sugo finto, and stay the night here.

On the final morning, head for Citerna, a walled village above the Tiber valley. In the church of San Francesco, find Donatello's terracotta of the Virgin with the Child, then walk the oval walls and gates for views towards La Verna, Gubbio and Assisi. Then on to Montone.

You end the trip at Montone, the walled home of the condottiero Braccio da Montone. Visit the San Francesco museum complex and its frescoes, then climb to the Rocca d'Aries. In summer, film screenings fill Piazza Fortebraccio. Then it is time to head for Perugia Airport.