Across Extremadura

Valverde de la Vera is known for the Empalaos, the Holy Week penitents who walk barefoot at midnight. Learn about the rite in the Museo del Empalao, then visit the Counts of Nieva's castle. Try the region's Torta del Casar, and stay the night here or nearby.

Guadalupe grew around its Royal Monastery, a World Heritage Site behind fortress walls. Walk through the Mudéjar cloister with its Moorish fountain, and see the camarín of the Black Virgin. Stay the night here, in the quiet of these mountains.

Trujillo's Plaza Mayor is guarded by Pizarro's statue, with palaces built by conquistadors all around. Climb to the castle, a former Arab alcázar, and have a plate of migas extremeñas for lunch. Settle in here for the night and enjoy the square after dark.

In San Martín de Trevejo, listen for mañegu, the village's own speech. Follow the water running down its streets, then see the panels by Luis de Morales in the church of San Martín de Tours. Then on to Trevejo, close by.

Trevejo is a tiny hamlet below a ruined castle. Climb up for views of the Sierra de Gata, then look at the graves cut into the granite beside San Juan church. Stay the night here, in the stillness of the hills.

Find the Manueline doorway of the town hall, one of the marks left by centuries under Portugal. Then take the vaulted ramps up the castle keep, and end the day with a slice of técula mécula, the town's almond tart, before you turn in for the night.

Jerez de los Caballeros covers two hills inside a Moorish wall. Look for the Torre Sangrienta, where legend says the last Templars died, and step into the church of San Miguel, linked to Hernando de Soto. Then on to Llerena.

Llerena was the home of the Order of Santiago's masters. Walk its historic centre to the church of Nuestra Señora de la Granada, and find the Santa Catalina chapel, once a synagogue. Settle in for the night, with the churches quiet around you.