The Etruscan coast and Tuscia

Start at Montescudaio, a castle village above the Cecina valley. Pass the civic tower at the entrance and the church of Santa Maria Assunta, then climb to the Guardiola lookout, now a belvedere. Look over the valley, then on to Casale Marittimo.

Casale Marittimo overlooks countryside where the Etruscans once lived. Enter through the Arco Cancellieri into Piazza del Popolo and visit the chapel of the Madonna delle Grazie. The tomb finds from Casa Nocera are shown in Cecina's archaeological museum. Have a bistecca alla fiorentina, the region's classic, then on to Campiglia Marittima.

Your first night is at Campiglia Marittima, a Maremma hill town built on metal. Visit the San Silvestro mining park, and ride the little train through the Lanzi-Temperino tunnel if you fancy it. Back in town, try the local schiaccia campigliese with a glass of vin santo and settle in for the evening.

Populonia was the one Etruscan city that stood on the sea itself. Visit the archaeological park of Baratti and Populonia with its necropolises, then climb to the little village and the Appiani fortress, and look out over the Gulf of Baratti, its ancient port. Then on to Suvereto.

Suvereto takes its name from the cork oak. Walk the walled village beneath the Rocca Aldobrandesca and step into the Romanesque Pieve di San Giusto, then raise a glass of Val di Cornia Suvereto, the wine made here. In May and August, barrel-pushing races fill the streets. Then on to Porto Ercole.

Porto Ercole is tonight's stop, a harbour on Monte Argentario watched over by Spanish forts. Climb to Forte Filippo and Forte Stella for the view, then wander the old town, the Rocca and the Palazzo dei Governanti. Settle in by the harbour for the night.

Capalbio is a hill town ringed by walls on Tuscany's southern edge. Walk the town walls, see the Rocca Aldobrandesca and the frescoes in San Nicola, and in the countryside nearby find the Giardino dei Tarocchi. Pour a glass of the local Capalbio DOC, then on to Torre Alfina.

At Torre Alfina the castle rises above a small village on the rim of the plateau. Admire it from the gardens, then step into the Sasseto wood next door. Try a piece of pecorino romano, the region's cheese, then on to Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio is tonight's stop, reached only by a footbridge. Cross it to Porta Santa Maria, with its lions, then look into San Donato for the wooden crucifix. Wander the lanes at dusk, on a street plan that goes back to the Etruscans, and stay the night here.

Vitorchiano rests on a ledge of peperino above two ravines, and has long supplied Rome's ceremonial guard. Find the moai carved here by Easter Islanders, then walk to Porta Romana and along the walls. A coffee in the old centre makes a good pause before Sutri.

You finish at Sutri, on a slender hill of tufa by the Via Cassia. Visit the Roman amphitheatre carved from the rock, then the Mithraeum turned into the church of Madonna del Parto. Walk among the Etruscan tombs cut into the rock. Then on to Rome Fiumicino Airport.